Registering a Converted Coach to a Motorhome

I remember when I first started my conversion looking everywhere for a “proper” documentation of what would have been the best approach as far as registering a bus/coach converted to a motorhome..

Now that Gigi is registered and I have a better understanding of what did involved getting it registered, I decided to put this article together, so that if you are thinking of approaching a conversion you may have a better understanding of how to handle it..

If you spend enough time looking around for answers, you will find that the most popular suggestions are:

1. Just install the bare minimum of the requirement just to get it registered, then play as you wish..
2. Get as much documentation as possible from all available sites and government agencies and do it properly..
3.  Pay someone to build it for you with your specs and requirements..

Number 3 doesn’t really apply to our situation as the builder will also take care of the legal requirements and you are not really involved other than few choice of material and/or colours..

Number 1 seems to be very attractive, but I don’t either recommend it or quite frankly, understand it. Trying to cheat the system from the word go, while giving you plenty of options, it will probably end up to be a conversion full of technical (legal) problems. The first time you get stop and inspected properly or even worse get involved in an accident, you will pay the consequence of those initial shortcuts. Plus the minimum requirements are just basic common sense requests and still an expensive exercise, so why don’t do it properly by the book, for the word go?!?

Some people also choose this option as they want to be able to move the vehicle from one location to another, while the conversion is completed. Again it didn’t make sense to me as a permit does cost around $90 while the full registration does cost around $1,700. That is 18 permits or 18 possible movement. I needed to move my vehicle only 3 times, so I’ll let you do the maths.. Unless you need to move into your “motorhome” straight away, while is under construction and being on the road, paying for the registration at the beginning, economically, doesn’t add up..

Number 2 as far as my concern is your best bet, cheaper in the long run and safest option to consider if you are serious and want to be proud about your conversion, in knowing that it was built “by the book”..

While some laws or regulations may seem silly at first, they are there for one simple reason. Safety of EVERYBODY on the road. Not just yours, but mine as well! Getting the right documentation does allow you to build a vehicle that while does conform to the current state and national rules, it also gives you a peace of mind every time you get check by the department of transport or an issue does arise in a caravan park and it should also have a much higher resell value for the simple fact that it was build properly.

So, the first step I would recommend, would be to read the NHVR Vehicle Standard Guide VSG5. While this document doesn’t tell you the best looking materials to use it does clearly tells you what you can and cannot do or more precisely what they expect your vehicle to have as a minimum standard. All these documents are available in the Members Download section.

Another good reading is the Motorhome/Campervan Inspection Sheet. This is the actual form that has to be filled up the day the vehicle get registered, so it is nice to be ahead and knowing what will be checked..

In the past few years there have been some changes in both what it is required and how various department do handle the registration inspection but nothing major..

Now in most conversions you have two kind of vehicles: Coaches that do have a full length chassis and mainly newer coaches that only have the main chassis above the axles and the frame itself as chassis between the two.. Most city buses (being lower to the ground) belong mostly to the second group. You will need a new compliance plate regardless of a chassis modification as, just removing the original seats and even only positioning them in a new location is now classified as a modification. If you replace entirely the seats, those seat will need to be also certified and ADR approved. So think about it before getting rid of all those seats. If severe modification to the chassis are required, remember that while welding is permitted, it is also highly NOT recommended..

If you have or are planning to use LPG, you will also need a Gas System Compliance Certificate, normally issued by the person installing the gas system. You will also need to renew the certificate any time a modification is applied or you are selling the vehicle..

Regardless of the installation of external accessories, ladders, spare tyres, awnings…, the Inspector may ask you to pay to perform a measurement of your vehicle based on the NHVR standard. It is also very important that you read under length and understand that when you convert a bus/coach (either articulated or not), it then goes under “for another vehicle—12.5 metres”. There are lots of buses and coaches for sale in the 14.5 metres range. Those are NOT convertible to motorhome as per Motorhome/Caravan Inspection Sheet, Question 7 point 3:”Is ‘L’ 12.5 metres or less?” No exceptions! Off course, you can still go ahead and convert a longer vehicle or even a bendy bus, but you will never get the chance to register them as motorhome.. Rego and insurance price will also be different..

You will also possibly need to find a public scale (weighbridge) where you will get an “Axle Measurement Ticket”. This will show your individual axle masses and more importantly you new GVM.  Make sure you present yourself fully loaded and if your GVM has gone below the 16t and you do have three axle, I wouldn’t bother to change the GVM in the registration as the cost, at least in QLD, is still the same $1,273.25.. So I would keep the OEM GVM (usually 22500 or 24000 kg), that does allow you more freedom of choice in things like tank’s size and peace of mind if stopped at a weighbridge along the way..

Speaking of rubber, your tyres built date may get checked as well on that day. Just because you still have plenty of thread, it doesn’t mean that the tyre is either good or safe. While there is no written rule (yet), for such issue, an examiner could interpret this a possible sign that there may be other items on the list that have been disregarded or completely ignored by you.. That normally doesn’t end up well.. However, your vehicle should have compliance plate regarding both the tyre size and rim size.. Make sure you have at least the right tyres and that they are the same size on the same axle..

Finally, if you have either 240 volts and/or a solar installation in your conversion, you should also have an Electrical Certificate of both Testing and Safety Compliance. It should include the Licence number and the work performed. The compulsory requirements on electrical installation in recreational vehicles are constantly changing and next year the requirement could be different again.. Your electrician should be up to date with those requirements. What ever you do, make sure that you have a proper detailed written certificate to cover your bum in an accident..

Another common dilemma going around Australia is which state has the cheaper registration costs. HERE you can see the QLD comparison cost for various vehicles, but that unfortunately doesn’t show either motorhomes or heavy vehicles, so it needs to be taken with a pinch of salt.. Tasmania still looks like the winner…

Presenting yourself with a clean vehicle and all the proper paperwork does help your new motorhome getting registered.. Remember, is your time and money, so doing it once and doing it right the first time, does make sense.. Do expect to pay around the $3000 mark for the entire exercise, unless there are technical problems that need to be rectified, in which case it could go from to be an easy fix, to opening a can of worms.. I wish you good luck and hope to see your conversion on the road soon..